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Precast Concrete Septic Tank Solutions

Precast concrete septic tanks are generally more robust than tanks made of steel, plastic or high-density polyethylene . Precast concrete is supple enough to endure excessive loading conditionswithout the worry of collapse or failure and has many other benefits over tanks which are made of different materials.

Precast concrete septic tanks provide the simplest form of aoff mains drainagea sewage plant treatment. This is provided that suitable soakaway conditions are available for disposal of the final effluent.

A wide range of septic tanks are available- which are designed to civil engineering standards in full compliance with Building Regulations section H and BS 6797, to treat domestic sewage for population equivalents from 4 to over 100 people.

Why should you choose a precast concrete septic tank?

  • Small to medium (ST4 - ST15) range come complete with an integral base which can be laid onto a blinding layer of sand without the requirements for a concrete sub base
  • Typically there is no requirement to backfill with concrete or gravel - just use excavated soil
  • Quick installation
  • Lightweight septic tanks requiring concrete backfill typically take longer to install
  • No requirement to fill the tank with water whilst backfilling takes place
  • Excavation, installation and backfill typically can take place in 1 day
  • Push fit gaskets for quick and easy connection of pipework
  • Complete package including lockable covers

Other Precast Concrete Products
A range of products can be used in conjunction with concrete septic tanks including:

  • Cattle troughs
  • Sheep troughs
  • Modular tank systems
  • Channels, ducts and covers
  • Septic tanks
  • Be-spoke concrete products
  • Cesspools

About the author: Burdens (www.burdens.co.uk)

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/sales-articles/precast-concrete-septic-tank-solutions-995761.html

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    Repairing fish tank corner?
    I just bought a large fish tank at a rummage sale for 10.00. It has no cracks, but when i leak tested it, i found that one of the corners started to leak. It is just a minor leak, and i think i can repair it by cutting out the bad portion, and recaulking. the area. Any tips of what kind of silicone caulking that i should use?

    • ANSWER:
      Easy question. I used to build all my own tanks. Buy a good quality clear 100% silicone. That is what they use when they make them.

  2. QUESTION:
    Can I add an adult male kribensis to my tank with a 3 1/2 month old female krib?
    I have a 40 gal breeder community tank and used to have a young pair of kribs. The male randomly died so I am looking to add another male. My fish store only has larger males for sale. The female is about 1 1/2 inches long. My question is do you think the male will terrorize the female or should they get along?

    • ANSWER:
      I imagine they should get along just as well as you should expect. They will either bond or not. If i remember my kribs, she should be close to her mature size anyway. Just make sure you have plenty of places for each fish to call home. Maybe rearrange the tank when you add the new male.

  3. QUESTION:
    Does Mardel Maracyn-Two kill fish?
    I have a 10 gallon tank with 2 Goldfish and 1, I believe, siamese sucker fish.

    Yesterday morning when I woke up, the water in my tank was 60 degrees. It is normally between 70 and 75. I went to the pet store and bought a heater and set it for 72. At the time I hadn't thought to rinse it in treated water before I installed it.

    This morning I noticed that my larger goldfish had severe fin rot. The ends of his tail and fins looked shredded and ragged. My smaller one had some, but not as severe. I promptly went to the pet store to buy some medication. The sales clerk in the fish department gave me Mardel Maracyn-Two to cure his fin rot. I gave them the first dose as per the directions on the box. They were darting around as usual when I left for work around 4.

    When I got home from work tonight, I noticed that my larger fish was just sitting on the bottom of the tank looking listless and gasping for breath. My little one looked dazed as well and neither of them avoided my hand when I was adjusting their rock as they usually do. My sister thinks my larger fish will not survive the night and my smaller one my not make it through tomorrow.

    I guess my final question is has anyone used this product and had an issue, or is it my fish or a mistake i may have made in dosage? My sister thinks maybe the heater had something to do with the fish dying.

    • ANSWER:
      I'm sorry that happened, Certainly you hadn't planned on the room temperature dropping so.

      The drop in temperature certainly could stress your goldfish and set their immune systems back. You will hear fish keepers and heart surgeons both repeating the mantra, "stress kills." Gold fish are cool water fish, but they can be sensitive to big temperature plunges which would chill them.

      Unless the new heater was in a tank, you shouldn't have to rinse it. The factory should have removed byproducts. What would there be to infect the fish?

      If it was hard on your gold fish dropping 12 degrees, jumping immediately back that much could be tough too. More stress. You sorta hit them with a truck and then backed up to look. ;( Usually they are raised a degree or two at a time.

      Maybe throw in an extra airstone.

      It's funny, in a pond a goldfish will swim through a couple thermal layers and seem to do fine in the cooler bottom and warmer surface areas. But I suppose if they swim somewhere that gets uncomfortable, they can move.

      Fin rot is a bacterial disease, commonly caused by too much dirt and fish waste in the water. (It may be there in non-harmfull levels until the dirt allows them to have a population explosion.) We almost all fall short of doing 40 or 50% partial water changes each week. (TFH magazine had a series last year suggesting that 70% weekly with treated, water that had chance to sit in open containers a day or three was the minimum if we were going to keep a tank from increasing in organic wastes.)

      If your goldfish are pretty small (under 2") they are not too much to keep up with. But they are robust heavy feeders and pass a lot of waste material. Ironically as the organic content in a tank builds up, that material also stresses the fish and can also inhibit their immune systems,

      Your choice of the freshwater version of Mardel Maracyn 2 sounds pretty good in a review of it (listed below). Unlike a lot of antibiotics it not supposed to destroy the effectiveness of the biofilter (which is what is left after we remove any activated carbon) or the nitrogen cycle. Destroying the nitrogen cycle may kill more fish, by poisoning the tank, than the disease took. You avoided that. (Applause!)

      Do the instructions suggest treating for five days? One day wouldn't show much change.

      If an illness is to be overcome, the causes need to be removed. That will dramatically increase their odds of having their immune systems getting stronger. As you now know, leave the temperature constant.

      Maybe more importantly, if you haven't done a partial water change in a couple of weeks, but you have treated water of about the same temperature available, take your gravel vacuum and suck up the dirt in a portion of your gravel. When the tank is about 30% lower, stop. Gently add three gallons.

      A quick fix. If you have no water ready, you might splurge and buy as much as five gallons of bottled "spring water" at your local grocery. (That is the stuff "purified" by Reverse Osmosis or RO. There should be compounds of calcium, magnesium and potassium added.) For the house brand, our grocery charges. 79 cents each. The good news: you don't have to treat that water.

      Use three of the gallons in your water change. Then add that day's dose of the antibiotic. Refill the empty jugs. Add the proper treatment your pet shop suggested for your water source. Don't overdo the dosage. Leave the jugs open so carbon dioxide and free nitrogen can be shed. Also it will absorb some free oxygen.

      Try to store those jugs where their temperature will be close to that of the aquarium as possible.

      Walk up the (almost) daily water changes to 40 & 50%. Try and continue those 50% changes until the goldfish look their old selves.

      When you have medicated for five days, if the instructions talk about beginning to remove that treatment on the six day or so, you are already doing water changes. Add some clean (rinsed) activated carbon to your filter. (Remember that is only effective a couple to seven days.)

      Hopefully your goldfish will have overcome the stress and trauma they have been through.

      You don't mention how big the so called Chinese algae eater is. Later in life at somewhere between three and nine inches they could be called the Siamese slime suckers. It probably isn't that fish now, but they can certainly suck on fish, injure and even kill them.

      See if you can trade it back. Perhaps, if you do not have a test kit, a little bit would be available to help get a kit that tests for that very toxic ammonia, the merely toxic nitrites and the toxic in numbers nitrates. That will help you watch for trouble over your gold fishes' next 20 or 25 years. :)

  4. QUESTION:
    I need help with my new fish tank! asap!?
    Ok, so last night I set up my new 15gal aquarium. The substrate is mostly sand and a little bit of rock, I put in the filter, the heater, the bubbler, a few live plants and a few fake ones and the decorations. I added the water purifier the sales lady recommended and decided that I would let it filter for a few days before I added any fish. When I got home from work today I noticed that the tank looks dirty, the water is crystal clear but EVERYTHING in the tank has some weird white-ish -clear-ish stuff that kinda looks like dirt or spider web. What do I do for this and what has caused it? How long will I have to wait to put fish in and will I have to drain it and start over? I'm kinda new to this whole large fresh water aquarium thing, I'm used to a Betta in a 2gal tank. Please help me idk what to do!

    • ANSWER:

  5. QUESTION:
    Where do you buy fish and fish supplies?
    I have the opportunity to purchase a pet store. It is about 50% fish, 25% dog supplies and 25% everything else.
    They have about 50 tanks with livestock. Most racks are 30" or 36" wide. The 36" racks are very interesting, they have 30 gallon tanks, 38 gallon tanks and even 33 gallon "flatback hex" tanks. shaped like this... http://www.homeaquariumtanks.com/images/flatback-hex-s.png of only freshwater fish and goldfish. They used to have a limited selection of saltwater fish, but presently none. In the back, they have about 20 tanks only 24" wide, mostly 20 high size that are used for quarantine, grow out and even some breeding.
    They tell me sales have been poor since 2006 off about 25-35% from 2000-05. They hit rock bottom in 2007-08, but 2009-10 aren't much better. They think it is partly due to the economy. Part of it is due to Petsmart moving to within 15 minutes of them. There has always been Petco about 20 minutes away. There were only 2 WalMarts within an hour in the 1990's. today there are 4.
    Do you shop at local independent or small (regional) chain stores?
    Do you choose the mega-size national chains?
    How about pet departments in large national department stores?
    Maybe even grocery stores?
    Do you do mail order?
    I want to buy the business because I like it and it is priced low. I don't know if the average buyer shops at a place like this and I will be able to straighten it out. Knowing where you shop and why will help a lot. Thanks.

    • ANSWER:
      I shop all over the place, honestly. For supplies I mostly stick to Petsmart, partly for their prices and partly because they are down the street from my campus. I also buy some supplies at Walmart since their prices on fish paraphernalia are very good. I'd never buy fish from Walmart, of course, nor from and other department store or grocery store. (Unless it was a filleted fish I was planning on eating, of course.)

      For the fish themselves, it depends upon what I'm looking for. Some species I simply can't find out here in the desert, so I do mail order but rarely. I mostly shop at my local store of choice, which has a great selection even if their fish staff are morons. Since there is a Petsmart not too far that has a very well-taken care of fish department with knowledgeable staff, I occasionally get fish there too. For example, the rainbowfish I bought at the local store ended up being hybrids, so I purchased some from Petsmart because I knew they weren't mixed.

      I love buying from my main LFS, which sounds fairly similar to yours. It is a single, independent store that is about 40% fish/supplies and 60% everything else. They have probably around 100 tanks, including a respectable selection of saltwater fish and eels. They seem to do a pretty good business, mostly because they're willing to special order things for customers and buy fish back. Their biggest detriment is, like I mentioned, the lack of knowledgeable staff.

      You'll always have the more serious fishkeepers/hobbyists in your area that only go to local stores for their needs. I don't know what type of area you live in, but one of the best things you could probably do to draw in more customers is to increase the selection of species you offer. The local store I frequent has a huge selection of cichlids, for example, which are very popular and give them a lot of business.


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